Friday, 9 August 2024

Seestern 62MAS thoughts (and review?)

I think highly of this watch not least because of the Seiko heritage that it is paying tribute to, but because it is a very affordable, very well made watch that I can wear as a daily use watch. So this is written with something like 3 weeks of using it as an exclusive daily wear.



So I intend this to be a gloves off "nobody pays  me to write" assessment of this watch.

Bottom line

Seestern have enabled enthusiasts of the 62MAS to have access to a modern version of the watch which is much closer to the original than Seiko's reissues. It does so in a way that modernises critical things (like the movement, 20mm lug width, sapphire crystal) and enables us to have affordable reliable access to a piece of history. Perfect, well except for the high polished bezel and, well the larger size of the bezel being a distraction from the watch's proportions. This is more evident with both watches in hand than even this photograph:


That aside it is indeed a good match for the MAS. Having had both in my hand at the same time I can say that I prefer the bezel and crystal of the Seiko MAS by a mile (and its not subtle).

I like the Seestern a lot but I'm probably going to go back to my Seiko SRPE as my daily wear because of the things I've discovered along the way which I'll discuss here. I may bring it out more in Summer. Unlike my Addiesdives Willard however I'm not going to be selling this watch (I have a small collection with a simple rule of: one in = one out.

Discussion

Briefly the 62MAS marks Seiko's first foray into making a watch aimed at professional and serious amateur divers. I recommend that if you haven't, you look over at my earlier blog post here, which at the very least which serves as both a good introduction to my initial thoughts. There I also give the specs and a link to Fratello Watches post on the Seiko 62MAS which I will again source a portion of an image. 

The dial and the importance of the dial on a diver as being highly legible in all (and adverse) conditions. Key to reading a watch is orienting the dial so that not only is the 12 O'Clock clear but making the quarters of the dial immediately recognisable increases the accuracy of knowing where the hands point to by reducing the time to be clear about is it on the 9 or on the 10


Seiko knew that and made the markers on these positions reasonably visibly different. This is my first beef with the Seestern where they aren't. Actually as an aside my second beef with the Seestern is the visibly bigger bezel dial ring and it being that shitty shiny "make my watch look like a plastic toy" high polish ceramic. Most of the time it doesn't look black... Compare the thickness here where the font struggles to fit into the older one ... The extra thickness makes the bezel dial so much more 'present' on the watch.


But has plenty of room on the newer one ...
Anyway, back to the markers, keep in mind this magnification makes it easier to see the marker differences, compared with on your wrist, perhaps at night and if you're older than 40, perhaps without your glasses (which you only need as yet for reading small print).

This is most pronounced in the night time when the effect of dim light and 'bloom' of the lume conspires to make the 12 (and perhaps the lumed pip on the bezel if you have it kept up at 12).



The second hand lume is barely visible at all (although it is equally bright) because it sits atop the marker. So you can see that, if you're one of these options (over 40 need glasses) this is a small setback for this Homage over the original (and Seiko's reimagining isn't much better anyway). 

While Seestern tries to follow the same ideas of the Seiko
  • tapering the lume ever so slightly towards the inner dial
  • making them smaller than the quarter markers 

the taper is far too subtle and the ratio of length to width is also far too subtle. Forgive the colour temperature differences, that's down to lighting on my photograph.


Lets look at them all in better (bigger) detail

so at significant magnification the differences are clearer ... handy for the myopic who aren't wearing their glasses ... but not so much in a dive or dim lit situation.

Its important to remember that this is of course a very early Dive Watch, and Seiko was still learning the best design language for Divers watches. To  me this reached peak form in the 7000 series (like the SKX007) where dials and hands evolved to produce what to me is the pinnacle of diver dials. I don't have one of those, but I do have my SRPE which is very close visually to that series. A picture from my above mentioned earlier blog post shows that layout advantage clearly.

Almost instantly you can see the design cues guiding your eye to the hand positions clearly; markers are somehow less cluttered, quarters are distinguished from the others resulting in less time is needed to recognise the time) and so a quick glance is all that's needed. In terms of design language, the later watch has evolved into a clear 12, dashes on the quarters and  dots between them. So at a glance you can see is the hand next to a Dash, between two Dots or between Dash Dot / Dot Dash.

While the hands of the Seestern (which are pretty faithful to the Seiko 62MAS so important here) also make night time recognition harder because the lume on the hour hand is nearly the same width as the lumed markers and the minute hand is barely distinguishable from it (further compounding quick recognition legibility).

So despite being almost exactly the same size of face the MAS, the Seestern ends up looking cluttered and cramped while the more modern dial looks open and clear. 

For me this lack of legibility is a detraction, I wish they'd striven to make the small changes err towards being clearer (instead of less clear).

I like that that bezel on the Seestern is proud of the watch case; both in height and diameter. This makes it easy to grip and turn (as its intended to be); however this has an implication for wearing and long sleeves where it catches a lot.

Wearing the MAS

As I mentioned in the other post watch thickness is almost identical, with only the crystal protruding a bit more to make the watches differ in thickness. So the grip style on the bezel, and the fact that it stands a little proud, means that sleeves and cuffs in particular snag on it. Far less of a problem with the SRPE

or indeed a more modern Seiko diver which has usually got a shape that will allow the watch to deflect the cuffs of shirts up and over it.

(image sourced from Reddit)

Accordingly the bezel gets caught on sleeve which is annoying, so this feels like its going to be more of a summer watch to me. However I'm still wearing it a day later so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Lastly we come to the fact that now most divers (not the Seiko 62MAS, nor the Willard however) now have a screw down crown. Because its a mechanical watch its not going to be as accurate as a Quartz watch is, which means you'll probably be unscrewing that to be setting the time weekly (if we accept that its going to be something like 5 minutes a week out) or if you aren't wearing it daily every time you need to put it on. In the past my (still to this day) favourite daily diver was my Sports 100 from 1979 (which I bought in 1983 or so)


As you can see:

  • its very slim
  • its very light (less than 63g the Seestern  was 66g)
  • the bezel allows finger grip but shirt slip
Being quartz it only required me adjusting the date every now and then because the time was accurate to seconds per month. Frankly adjustment of the date happened infrequently because I often never referred to the date; the day however I looked at frequently but never needs adjustment (unlike the date of the month). So the crown would be unscrewed perhaps 4 times per year. Meaning unlike my Seestern it will never suffer stripped or worn crown case tube threads over time. 

Note also that the Sports 100 has excellent legibility and very clear quarter hour markers; making it an excellent watch from many angles.

Conclusions

Basically the Seestern MAS deserves to be a daily wear watch (the disrespectful will use the term "beater") because:

  • its very economically priced (like not far from a Casio Duro)
  • it has a robust and reliable NH35 movement in it (so, not unlike that in my SRPE

I'm very pleased to have this watch in my box and I hope that come summer it'll see more time than my SRPE does ... 

I'll update this as I discover more. Update 1


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